Wereit not for the dry rhythm of the drum and the overheated ambianceappropriate for sporting events, the surroundings might be a set for anartistic performance, insofar as Vietnamese traditional wrestling (“dauvat”) resembles dancing. Indeed, the most impressive aspects of thisextremely popular sport are its picturesque and well-choreographedqualities.

Wrestlerswaiting for the fights to begin sit around a "carpet." There is no ringor rope. Using lime, villagers have drawn a square of around 10m oneach side. The audience sits around the square, watching withanticipation as wrestlers rub their sweaty hands on the earth, all thewhile watching their opponents out of the comers of their eyes.

"Toong!Toong! Toong!" The drum calls two competitors to the fight. Like alltraditional Vietnamese sports, a drum, a gong or sometimes bothaccompany wrestling. The drum adds rhythm and stimulates the athletes.A speaker announces the competitors, who stand up and step forward tothe middle of the "carpet." They are barebacked and wear red shortswith a silk belt around their waist, red for one contestant and yellowfor the other.

They dance withlight footsteps recalling those of birds. Their arms make supple andundulating movements, displaying their musculature. Then go the warm-upstage, a spectacle full of panache and rich in colour. Normally, thislasts two minutes while the drums continue beating. Although theperformances vary according to schools of martial arts, ail warm-updances must match the drum's rhythm. Once the wrestlers have finishedtheir warm-up, the principal referee introduces the wrestlers byraising their arms as in boxing. Then the

Thebeating of the drum regulates the fight. The rhythm accelerates as soonas one of the adversaries initiates a hold. It returns to normal oncedanger has passed, as if the drum wants to let the wrestlers recovertheir breath and preserve their guard. When a wrestler falls, therhythm accelerates, becoming more and more pressing. A finishing strokeof the drum puts an end to the combat when the loser's shoulders touchthe ground. The winner and loser stand up, applauded by a prolongeddrum roll.

Eachwrestler has his own holds, passed down by his coach, who is the onlyperson who knows these secrets. The winner is the wrestler who turnshis adversary with his "face to the sky" and forces his shoulders totouch the earth. Under modem regulations, a match is composed of threefour-minute rounds. But traditional matches often lasted for hours,since the rules did not allow a draw.

Attendingthe national traditional wrestling championship, you will be able toenjoy the exciting atmosphere, rather like the hot air of a footballmatch.