After languishing for more than a quarter of a century as atumble-down government-run hotel, the former colonial mansion by thePerfume River has been restored to its past elegance and grandeur. Nowtransformed into La Residence Hotel and Spa, Hue's finest boutiquehotel has gained international renown.

By the Perfume River

By the Perfume River

By the Perfume River

By the Perfume River

All over what was onceFrench Indochina, similar revivals of long-neglected, once-grandarchitectural vestiges of the century-long colonial empire have beenongoing. Tourism to Vietnam is escalating; visitors, enticed by themarketing of nostalgia chic, hope to experience what is perceived to bethe romanticism of a bygone era.

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Throughoutthe 143-year Nguyen Dynasty, the imperial city of Hue was Vietnam'spolitical capital. Although ostensibly ruled by the emperor, trueauthority during the colonial period rested with the French. In 1930,the residence of the governor of Annam was renovated and expanded toprovide accommodations for visiting colonial administrators anddignitaries. The revamped residence on what was then the grandboulevard called rue Jules Ferry, reflected the exuberant decorativeflourishes of the Art Deco design movement that was in favourworldwide. With a columned rotunda at its nucleus and winged byannexes, the new structure combined curves and straight sides, alongwith effects such as windows shaped like port holes and railings on theupper terraces, that gave the ship impression characteristic of theNautical Moderne branch of the Art Deco style. From this spectacularmanor by the Perfume River, the colony was ruled, while the colons inside indulged in sumptuous lifestyles.

Thenthat comfortable good life began to collapse. World War II saw theJapanese occupation of Hue-with the explicit acceptance of France-forfive years. Although there are no documents indicating that theyusurped the luxurious estate during that time, such behaviour had beenthe pattern of their invasions throughout Southeast Asia. After theJapanese surrender at the end of World War II, the French attempted toreclaim their colony. This time they met opposition-President Ho ChiMinh and his Viet Minh-and Hue saw much fighting during the FirstIndochina War. As a colonial administration center, the mansion wasfrequently under attack.

After Ho Chi Minh's victory againstthe French and the Geneva Accords of 1954 divided the country justnorth of Hue, the Art Deco residence was appropriated by the presidentof the Republic of South Vietnam, Ngo Dinh Diem, as an administrativeheadquarters. But the North's desire to "liberate" the South and unitethe country continued to intensify. Since the building was related tothe governing of the South, and because of Hue's location near theborder between North and South, it was often a target, and there is nodoubt that the original mansion was pocked with bullet holes. Theseattacks, however, were only a prelude; Hue would soon be the scene ofone of the bloodiest battles in its history.

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Afterthe fall of Saigon and reunification, the governor's residence on whatwas now named Le Loi Street was converted into a hotel operated by thegovernment tourist authority and its grandeur began fading with time.

Followinga thorough renovation, the hotel's refurbished and expanded renaissancewas in December of 2005. The architecture of the original manor waspreserved and duplicated in the two new wings that were adjoined to theoriginal 1930 colonial heart. Throughout, the décor is evocative of the30s. Now totalling 122 rooms, the hotel radiates a colonial aura andthe ebullient styling typical of Art Deco. What was once the circularand colonnaded function room has been converted to the lobby andreception lounge as well as Le Gouverneur's Bar which features anengaging textile fresco depicting scenes of Vietnamese life. Inspiredby the frescoes in Art Deco buildings in France, the mural was createdby French artist and Ho Chi Minh resident, Roland Renaud.

Anchoredby the luxurious president's suite located on the top floor of therotunda, the original colonial core has been revamped into a dozenrooms and suites. Mature trees grace the two hectare property as doesan extensive lush garden. In addition to a thirty-metre saltwater pool,there is an internationally acclaimed spa and Le Parfum, undeniably oneof the best restaurants in Vietnam.

It was during a memorablemulti-course Vietnamese dinner at Le Parfum that we had an opportunityto chat with the hotel's general manager, Carmen Marienberg, who is asexuberant as the building's Art Deco architecture.

Muchtravelled since leaving Germany in 1986, Ms.Marienberg honed her skillsin the hospitality trade by working in Spain, England, aboard the QueenElizabeth II, in the Cayman Islands, South Africa, Beijing, Egypt,Jordan, and Thailand. "At one point I was hired to manage a bar in HongKong," she relates with an engaging laugh. "The owners were shockedwhen I suggested they serve alcohol." The gregarious general manager'sjourneys have not been without danger-she was shot at in Siem Reap aswell as assaulted and robbed in Nairobi.

As is the case with allwho stay here, the general manager, who took the position in late 2006,is clearly enamoured with the boutique hotel. "One of the mostremarkable things about La Residence is its positioning by the PerfumeRiver. The hotel takes in the water and the Citadel beyond in a waythat-when I first came here three years ago-evoked Indochine as Iimagined the French once knew it. What's as remarkable, I suppose, isthat today I can still marvel at that view, and the hotel's situationhere, and be moved by it."

At the conclusion of our meal, sheappeared at the table, standing in her whites and smiling. Carmen madethe introduction, "This is our Executive Chef, Louise Serfontein." Wewere surprised at how young she was. Thinking it impolite to comment onher age, we expressed our enjoyment of our dinner. Chef Louiseimmediately diverted the praise to "my brigade in the kitchen."

Throughoutour stay, the attractive, amiable, and unpretentious chef de cuisinewould find time to visit our table for brief chats.

 "I wasn'tgood at math and I wasn't good at languages. Fortunately I foundsomething I was good at," she explained when we asked how she decidedon her career. "Maybe it's in the blood. I made what turned out to becrème brûlée at a preschool age."

Chef Louise's menu at Le Parfumoffers an extensive selection of Western and traditional Vietnamesedishes, all with her subtle variations. "There are certain things Ijust could not do without-garlic, onion, black pepper, coriander,basil, and balsamic vinegar."

Vietnamese starters include anaddicting banana flower salad served with steamed rice flour crepes,fish sauce, and dried shrimp. Equally delectable is the Vietnameseappetizer extravaganza-green mango salad with crispy anchovies, steamedrice roll with pork, fried spring roll, pan fried minced beef in betelnut, and minced shrimp on sugar cane.

Western appetisers includetender grilled calamari marinated in coriander, garlic, and lime, andserved with pineapple salsa, and a memorable vegetable risotto servedwith shaved parmesan. Much attention is paid to plate display. "It isimportant to please the eyes as well as the palate," Chef Louiseexplained. Her trilogy of soups appetizer-potato cream with crispbacon, broccoli with blue cheese mouse, and tomato basil-each came withcondiments arranged artfully on balanced porcelain Chinese spoons.

Choosingmains from the many tempting offerings was always difficult. Vietnamesedishes enticed with such options as mixed seafood with gingerlemongrass and fish sauce served with noodles in a clay pot, or grilledmarinated duck breast with steamed sweet potato, water spinach, andwarm cabbage salad.

Beckoning from the Western side of the menuwere further enticements: pan seared tuna with pepper crust,accompanied by grilled zucchini, spring onions, and lemon aioli; wasabisalmon-the fish has been marinated in wasabi yogurt and served withsmoked salmon risotto, sautéed greens, and vegetable timbale; andlobster thermidor presented with a white wine sauce and meltedparmesan. As two unabashed gourmands, Doris and I were in gastronomeheaven.

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We had a plan. This morningDoris, who enjoys the pampering of spa treatments, would visit thehotel's award-winning Le Spa, while I, who don't, would spend the timelounging by the pool, reading, swimming, and sunning. We would meet forlunch after her session. Even the best intentions can sometimes goaskew.

Making a choice from the treatments outlined in theextensive spa menu was not easy. "Romancing the Perfume River," whichoffered a three-hour indulgence for two that included a bottle ofsparkling wine, was easily eliminated because of one unwillingparticipant. "Hue Afternoon Escape" was another three-hour temptationthat Doris pondered, as was the two-hour "Earthly Pleasures." Makingdecisions from several alluring choices was reminiscent of thedifficulties encountered with the menu in Le Parfum.

After muchdeliberation, the aromatherapy facial with neck and shoulder massagewas selected as a starter, with the hot rock stone treatment as themain. "See you for lunch in two hours," she announced.

Afterreading and sunning and swimming and letting my mind drift with thedragon boats on the river, I ordered a La Rue, a locally brewed lager,and sat at the pool bar, gazing occasionally in the direction of thespa. Time seems to slow down here at La Residence.

"You have manyhair on your arm," the smiling young pool bar attendant commented. Iwondered if this was perhaps the Vietnamese way of beginning aconversation, and was uncertain of an appropriate rejoinder. He was afriendly fellow who studied English in the evenings and as it turnedout, was very inquisitive about Canada.

Eventually Doris emergedfrom the canopy of the longan tree in front of Le Spa. All bundled upin a plush robe and slightly flushed, she made her way on what appearedto be rubbery legs to our poolside umbrella-shaded lounge chairs. 

When I approached, I could hear her sigh. "How was it," I asked.

In response, she sighed again, not opening her eyes. "Wonderful," she whispered.

"Tell me about it at lunch?" I suggested.

 "I'mtoo relaxed to eat," she murmured. Moisturized, de-stressed, soothed,revitalized, rebalanced, detoxified, and renewed, she was content to goon rewind, reliving the pampering pleasures of the last two hours.

Overlunch for one at the pool bar-Chef Louise's take on tom yam gung andspring rolls-I resumed the pleasant conversation with the pool barattendant. Although there were no more comments on one particulartopic, he did occasionally glance furtively at my arms.

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Justnext to La Residence is a street leading to the river. Afternegotiating the terms for a cruise with the owner of one of the dragonboats moored at a makeshift pier, we were chugging leisurely on thepoetically named river. We sat on the bow on moulded plastic chairs inthe shade of a canopy made from a tarpaulin fastened by ropes. Afteronly a few minutes, the owner's wife handed us a hand-written menu fora meal she would prepare for us, and seemed truly disappointed that wedeclined.

We passed young boys in dugout canoes diving forshells. In places there were communities of boats-boat villages-wherewomen were washing clothes and themselves, hollering and laughingloudly back and forth. At one point we witnessed a solemn ceremonypresided over by monk; a number of people were throwing coloured papersinto the air and setting candles and incense adrift in paper boats. Wewere later to learn that the ritual was for someone who had died on theriver, and the papers had pictures of items that could be used in theafterlife-money, clothes, food.

There is a serenity on thisriver, a peacefulness. Lulled into a pensive mood, our thoughts turnedto a time much less tranquil. We knew that Hue had been the scene ofone of the bloodiest conflicts in the Vietnam War. It was here that theTet Offensive began.

After their capture of the city, the VietCong and North Vietnamese Army commandeered the governor's estate andused it as a detention centre for South Vietnamese government officialsthey had arrested. During the month-long intense fighting, thissoothing river played a vital role in moving US and ARVN supplies andpersonnel.

When the North was finally defeated-the city had to besecured house by house, street by street-Hue was in ruins. An estimatedeighty percent of homes were destroyed or damaged. Several thousandsoldiers had been killed. Even more horrific was the toll oncivilians-the Viet Cong had massacred thousands who they believed to beAmerican sympathizers. It is not clear how much damage was sustained bythe mansion at 5 Le Loi during that fierce battle, although it islikely that, like the rest of the city, it was extensive.

We weredistracted from our reflections by a shuffling behind us. On a blanket,the wife had arranged what she called "souvenirs."Ever-entrepreneurial, she displayed an array of items for sale-do paper sketches of girls in ao daiand pyramid hats, beaded bracelets and necklaces, silk kimono withdragon motifs, shirts, buffalo horn hair adornments, chopsticks.

Thesun was beginning to set as we saw the unmistakable architecture of ourhotel ahead. Our musings returned to the present and took a decidedlymore pleasant turn. Evening was approaching and we began to feel thefamiliar summoning of the restaurant. We wondered what gastronomicindulgences were awaiting during dinner at this former mansion by thePerfume River.

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Fact File: 

La Residence Hotel & Spa
5 Le Loi Street, Hue City, Vietnam
Tel:    (0084) (0) 54 3837 475
Fax:   (0084) (0) 54 3837 476
Web: http://www.la-residence-hue.com/
email: resa@la-residence-hue.com

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Published on 12/22/09