While the availability of fine Chinese cuisine is a little lean, the arrival of Luc Thuy restaurant at 16 Le Thai To Street should be welcome relief to Hanoians that have been pining for suitable Peking Duck or Sichuan Beef. Specialising in dishes from southern China, the restaurant's kitchen is staffed with cooks from Guangzhou, who serve up sinfully tender Cantonese classics.

Located on the eastern banks of Ha Noi's placid Hoan Kiem Lake, the owners have taken no shortcuts in outfitting the restaurant with opulent chandelier lanterns, dark-hardwood floors and traditional art pieces that fill the spot with tasteful elegance. While the restaurant has yet to have its official grand opening, the establishment has opened its doors in order to attract customers and help build up a reputation, as the staff continues to put the finishing touches on the menu and day-to-day operations.

Meat treat: Be careful, the Sichuan Beef can be a little spicy. Luc Thuy Restaurant Add: 16 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Dist, Ha Noi Tel: 04 - 62838888 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              04 - 62838888 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              04 - 62838888      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      end_of_the_skype_highlighting Price range: VND300,000 and up Comment: Classy atomsphere with a beautiful view and quality Chinese dishes.

The double-boiled pigeon soup was the first dish to arrive and from what I was told, was one of the finest delicacies that the restaurant has to offer. Due to the ubiquitous presence of pigeons in most urban environments I was somewhat skeptical as I jabbed at the avian flesh, however I was pleasantly surprised. The dark-flesh fowl tasted somewhat like a hybrid between turkey and quail and was cooked in a savoury broth that was accompanied with cordyceps that enhanced the flavour and medicinal qualities of the soup. I was feeling better already.

After quaffing down a few cups of oolong tea, my palate was refreshed and I was ready for the Sichuan Beef. While I had been ardently warned by the staff to proceed with prudence when consuming this dish due to its seasoning, I found the thinly sliced beef strips to be of a medium spice that didn't require the consumption of copious amounts of liquid to remedy the pain. The cold beef that was amply dressed with sour orange sauce was a highly suitable follow up to the piping hot pigeon soup.

Hungry for more I proceeded to the next entre, braised tofu with minced pork meat. While the thought of preparing tofu with animal flesh would likely be considered an abomination in the eyes of most Western Vegetarians, the combination of bean curd and meat is one of my favourite treats in the East. Rich in flavour and light in density, the tofu was packed with the appropriate level of spice, but was slightly lacking in its consistency in the eyes of this self proclaimed ‘tofu dude.'

The final dish of the day, stir-fried spicy chicken, finally topped off my appetite. While bone-in-meats often inject additional effort into an eating experience, due to the amount of food I had already consumed during this sitting, I was glad to be able to enjoy modest bites of the chicken as my stomach continued to expand.

After another gluttonous experience, I threw in my napkin, dropped my chopsticks and began to let sweet superlatives fly from my mouth. It's been years since I have had a proper Chinese meal, and it couldn't have come sooner. While the restaurant has yet to have its ‘Grand Opening' and unveil its verdant garden that will house a cigar and cocktail bar, Luc Thuy warrants a visit from anyone who is fond of Chinese cuisine. — VNS